Ari Atoll

I arrived in October 2008 to discover the Maldives had recently held an election. Signs reading “Vote for Change” hung from the low-rise buildings, a strange parallel to the US presidential election that would take place just a month later. It seems change isn’t just the domain of the USA, but lucky for me (and divers) this was the only sign of change I’d see on this trip. Because while the country’s political and geographic climates may be shifting (as the seas rise, certain islands are being swallowed by the ocean), one thing remains constant: The Maldives still has outstanding diving.

Nearly 1,200 jewel-like islands make up the 26 atolls that encompass a swathe in the middle of the Indian Ocean that is 760 km from north to south and 120 km from east to west. Many travellers never make it past the most popular atolls, North and South Male, and in truth it’s a good spot for divers to begin their exploration of this dynamic destination. The country’s heart is home to fantastic wrecks (the Victory), big-fish sites (mantas at Manta Point), and breathtaking reefs (Cocoa Thila). But if you contained yourself to just North and South Male atolls, you’d be missing a lot of what makes this country so magical.

Perhaps the best diving can be found to the south in Alifu, which is actually comprised of three geographical atolls: Ari, Rasdhoo, and Thoddoo. The largest of the atolls, Ari is divided into two administrative zones: North Ari and South Ari. There are dozens of resorts and live-aboards to choose from in Ari, ranging from five-star luxury to backpacker basics, but finding one that suits your personal diving style isn’t as easy. Once you decide between the Western “log as many dives as you can” style versus the European style, which focuses on diving sprinkled with heavy bouts of relaxation, all that’s left is to sit back and dive,